PITTI UOMO °88
A Mastroianni Tribute
THE PROJECT LAUNCHED BY SUTOR MANTELLASSI IN HONOUR OF MARCELLO MASTROIANNI HAS REACHED ITS THIRD PHASE. MM3: Scott Schuman pays tribute to the famous actor, icon of Italian style.
Scott Schumann is the third of five designers who has been asked to reinterpret the shoes that Marcello Mastroianni wore 50 years ago, when he left his prints on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles, wearing a pair of Sutor Mantellassi.The shoe has already been reinterpreted by Justin Deakin (shoe designer from London) and by Scott Fellows with Craig Bassam (designers and founders of BassamFellows). After Scott Schumann it will be the turn of Toshinosuke Takegahara (Japanese shoe designer) and finally of Thomas Erber (famous French journalist).
The MM3, designed by Scott Schuman, has the same distinctive shape as the original shoe, but thick leather and cleated sole make it bolder, as Scott Schuman explains: “Like everyone, I’m a big fan of Marcello Mastroianni but maybe not for the same reasons. Like Cary Grant or Fred Astaire many people think of Marcello Mastroianni as a tuxedoed playboy which is one very important element of his persona, but it’s not the only element. I think what makes Marcello so captivating is that under the surface of elegance there was always an element of danger in his eyes. You could tell that the rouge in him was never far from appearing. And it was this element of masculine machismo that I wanted to focus on with this shoe. The upper of the shoe is very elegant, dark leather trimmed with traditional broguing in a way that makes a long slim foot. However when you look beneath, there’s a heavy comando sole which gives the shoe a muscle and a strength to prepare for any type of terrain it might encounter. To me this is a great embodiment of what Marcello Mastroianni stood for. Elegance with an underlying of toughness which made Marcello and the shoe perfect for any occasion.”
The Sutor Mantellassi Spring-Summer 2016 collection is inspired by the Mediterranean atmosphere of the 1960s and the modernist, geometric and colourful architecture of Luis Barragán as a symbol of rational and balanced elegance.
The collection comprises historical models with noble constructions like Goodyear. Yet the real innovation is the Blake Rapid Flex construction, with pieces created from kangaroo skin aged by hand, whilst the one piece sneaker is realised in coarse hand-dyed linen. This is how Sutor Mantellassi confirms the concept of footwear able to establish a dialogue between formal and informal, between classicism and modernity, without ever losing sight of craftsmanship, luxury and Italian taste that have always characterised the brand. Materials range from reversed calfskin, the resistant kangaroo and natural linen. The colour palette ranges from shades of aubergine to dress blue, with dark brown, yellow ochre and green bay passing in mind.
Another innovation at Pitti is the new backpack in linen and leather, which guarantees versatile usage, being elegant and sporty at the same time.